hotend v4.2 assembly manual


This is the hotend v4.2 assembly manual.


!!! WARNING !!!
  Stainless Steel barrel has very thin walls.
  Note that there are 2 parts of the barrel that are 
grooved for wrenches.
  When tightening, always tighten the part of the 
barrel that is closest to the other wrench (on the 
nozzle or heatsink)!
   Use properly sized wrenches - 8mm and 12mm!
  Results are not quaranteed with an improper 
!!! WARNING !!!

Assembly of the heater block

The assembly basically goes like this: you assemble the heater block (resistor, thermistor), then assemble the body of the hotend (nozzle - barrel - heatsink), then you screw the body into the heaterblock.

Putting wires on the power resistor

Meet the Hammerhead. The new heaterblock for the arcol v4.2. The resistor/heater is fixed into the block with a hammer, so it'll never get loose! This is permanent:

Then remove 3cm of insulation from the wires. Brown is for the heater, purple is for the thermistor:

Remove the plastic skirt from two of the large ferrules. The large ferrules are for the brown wires, the smaller for the purple wires:

With the insulation removed, place the ferrule onto the bare wire, keep an eye on the ferrule orientation:

Take the ferruled brown wire and twist it on the resistor before crimping.
(Keep an eye on the ferrule orientation):

Move the ferrule up the wire into it's final positon on the twisted wires:

Always use a proper crimper/crimping tool to have that perfect (and heat resistant) joint! If you use normal pliers, your crimp may loosen from continuous reheating:

IF you don't have a crimping tool, borrow one! Nothing else is more frustrating than a partially working hotend from loose joints. It's very difficult to debug, so avoid future problems, and crimp properly!

Both wires crimped onto the heaterblocks resistor with excess wire snipped off:

Now that the wires have been crimped and snipped, put Kapton tape on the leads too, to prevent short circuit. After you placed the Kapton tape, and you have cut to size, with a little force, slide the insulators over the crimps. They'll stay in place with friction:

Assembly the thermistor

With the insulation removed, place the ferrule onto the bare wire, keep an eye on the ferrule orientation:

Take the ferruled purple wire and twist it on the thermistor before crimping:

Crimp only one end of the thermistor, cut off the excess wire:

Apply about 30mm of kapton tape folded along its length on the bare wire. This will provide electrical insulation. Apply the tape as close to the thermistor as possible. Don't tape the sensor itself!
(the provided kapton tape can be seen in the background):

Cut the kapton tape along the wire about 6mm wide. This'll make it easier to slide through the heaterblock later:

Slide the half assembled thermistor through its hole in the heaterblock. Now we'll do the other side like the first:

Crimp the second wire of the thermistor, then put on the kapton tape and trim like before. Afterwards slide the thermsistor into place (in the middle) and bend the wires into their respective cutouts on the heaterblock:

Bend all wires into their notches. Also make sure all the insulators (two brown, two blues) are in place. Then zip them up with a ziptie:

Placing molex connectors onto the heaterblocks wires

Remove about 10mm insulation from the brown wires, bend them in half:

Remove about 10mm insulation from the purple wires, bend them into thirds, in a zigzag or "Z" shape.

All wire ends are prepared for the molex connector and its pins:

All wire ends crimped:

Everything in, Ready to go! Polarity isn't important. Brown Brown/Purple Purple is recommended for standards sake:

Assembly of the hotends body

Insert the PTFE tube into the heatsink. If you have trouble you can align the tube with a piece of filament.

Tighten the barrel and the nozzle together with as much force as possible:

Then screw on the heatsink and tighten. Its not necessary to use that much force with the heatsink!
Afterwards screw the endscrew into the heatsink:

Put everything together

Now you can screw the completed assembly into your prepped heaterblock.
The finished hotend assembly, without the firesleeve:

Turn the firesleeve inside out and remove the loose strands. No worries plenty'll stay attached:

Here is a comparison of the before (right) and after (left) sleeves.
The removed strands can be seen at the left:

Put the firesleeve onto the heaterblock.

Here is the final assembled hotend v4.2:

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