Ikea Drawer

blog

This blog was published on 2012-09-25 at http://blog.arcol.hu/?p=1954.

Last December I was approached by a friend to do a joint build on a better printer.

I took them up on the deal, because I had an IKEA drawer, where the plastic rail guide had broken, and I was unable to print a replacement part with either of my 3D printers.

I think it is fairly reasonable deciding to build a whole new 3D
printer to repair a piece of furniture which only cost 18EUR originally.

Here is the furniture in question:
flickr:8016620960

We set many goals for our ultimate finished machine,
but the first milestone was to be able to print out this replacement
part:
flickr:8016769451

This model is an excellent stress test, because:
1. it is 200mm long, so with the pads it only fits diagonally on the heated print platform
2. has thin walls
3. well calibrated bridging is necessary
4. retraction is really critical (the small cylinders at the top)
5. relatively fast to print
6. it is big only in one direction, so wants to curl up enormously
7. perfectly levelled bed is necessary. PCB alone does not work.
8. we wanted to print it with ABS plastic (the more difficult one)

Here are some pics to back up the above claims.
It fits only diagonally onto the heated print bed (point 1.)
flickr:6810028206

Bridging is necessary, and has thin walls, so only two filament width.
(point 2. and 3.)
flickr:8016860866

Retraction is really critical (point 4.)
flickr:8016860816

And also another cylinder at the top of the model:
flickr:8016769583

No curling occured (point 6.)
flickr:8016769641

And as a bonus I compiled a calibration object, which is even faster to print:
flickr:6809861404

This model was successfully printed on 5 of March, and here it is installed:
flickr:8016620876

And it has not broken since then, so holding up fairly well
(5 months already!), and we use it daily.

One last photo to show the drawer in action:)
flickr:8016865812

I also published both models on thingiverse, as thing:xxx.
Maybe others will find them equally useful.

Technical infos:
1. The model was printed on March 5 using slic3r 0.7.0.
2. We used arcol.hu v4.0.1 hotend at the time. (currently 4.1.1 is on the sale)
3. Red ABS from reprapsource.

The slic3r config.ini

Layer H 0.4mm
E multi 1

bottom_layer_speed_ratio = 0.3
bridge_flow_ratio = 1.4
bridge_speed = 30
duplicate_distance = 6
duplicate_x = 1
duplicate_y = 1
end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperature\nG28 X0 ; home X axis\nM84 ; disable motors\nM107 ; Fan off
extrusion_axis = E
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width_ratio = 0
filament_diameter = 2.95
fill_angle = 0
fill_density = 0.3
fill_pattern = rectilinear
first_layer_height_ratio = 1
g0 = 0
gcode_arcs = 0
gcode_comments = 0
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_speed = 50
layer_height = 0.4
nozzle_diameter = 0.5
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
perimeter_speed = 40
perimeters = 3
print_center = 85,65
retract_before_travel = 2
retract_length = 1
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_speed = 6
rotate = 45
scale = 1
skirt_distance = 6
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
small_perimeter_speed = 25
solid_fill_pattern = rectilinear
solid_infill_speed = 50
solid_layers = 3
start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nM106 S150 ; Fan on
temperature = 248
travel_speed = 120
use_relative_e_distances = 0
z_offset = -0.2

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