Arcol Hotend Care

blog

This blogpost will be published on http://blog.arcol.hu.

Warning

This is some random stuff, I'm collecting over time about hotend maintenance and care.
When enough data is collected, I will publihs it as an article. So consider it as a WIP for a very long time.

Before first usage, clean the nozzle

The manufacturing (although very unlikely) can leave metal chip inside the nozzle.
So clean it before the first usage, picture:
flickr:10080592693

More pics

some more photos:
flickr:10067926546
flickr:10067872635
flickr:10067963983

Clean it before first usage (to be on the safe side), a nice chip in the filament demonstrated on the below photo:
flickr:10080592693

How to debug the alignment (it is not Rapman, normal reprap setup. Not belonging here):
flickr:10083069974

Some other solutions

I still keep around the older heater block design which suits the
104-GT2, 204-GT2 thermistors, but I don't advise to new buyers, because the firecement is still
timeconsuming to apply (around 50mins).
But there are cases, where it is unavoidable to use 104-GT2 or 204-GT2 thermistors (eg: Rapman:).

Debugging (draft)

With the hyena when extruding you should get
absolutely no filament chip accumulating between the teeth over time.

Once the hyena starts to get filament chips, the grip reduce radically.
In normal operation you can print away multiple spools
without a single chip inside the teeth.

So your goal is to not get any filament leftover in the hyena.

(The hyena has more then enough torque to push the filament down
in normal operation)

You can try the following things:

1. Check how hard to push the filament down with your bare hands (when
the hotend is heated up).
If you are unable to push the filament out, or it is too difficult*
then solve that first.
*: by too difficult I mean, you should be perfectly able to push the
filament down with two fingers (thumb and forefinger)

2. Check the alignment*. Seems obvious, but if the alignment is not right**,
then pushing the filament means exponentially more force.

*: Never ever (ever ever) push a metal rod (eg. drillbit) into the
drive mechanism, it will surely destroy the hyena's teeth.

**: You should be able to look down the hotend and see the light.
Last picture on this draft page: http://wiki.arcol.hu/blog:arcol-hotend-care

3. If all the above is right, and topnotch, then (and only then) start
to experiment with the tension on the hyena (how hard should be
tighten the springs)
With my supplied springs*, you basically tighten until the springs
fully closes, then three entire turns backward.

*: http://shop.arcol.hu/item/spring-kit

4. It may absolutely possible the hotend is simply bad designed and
wont work reliably at all.
(ie. the hyena only grinds the filament after half an hour of oepration.
The hotend warms up too badly resulting filament stuck inside the hotend)

It is always a good idea to provide me as much photos as you can.
Without photos it is really hard to help anyone remotely.

Also feel free to reply to the mailing list, others can chimp in and
have more ideas.

The hyena is tested, and should work fine with a wide range of
hotend combination.
If it fails to operate, the best is troubleshoot and debug your setup.

More pics

some more photos:
flickr:10067926546
flickr:10067872635
flickr:10067963983

Clean it before first usage (to be on the safe side), a nice chip in the filament demonstrated on the below photo:
flickr:10080592693

How to debug the alignment (it is not Rapman, normal reprap setup. Not belonging here):
flickr:10083069974

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