Warning

!!! WARNING !!!
  Stainless Steel barrel has very thin walls.
  Note that there are 2 parts of the barrel that are 
grooved for wrenches.
  When tightening, always tighten the part of the 
barrel that is closest to the other wrench (on the 
nozzle or heatsink)!
   Use properly sized wrenches - 8mm and 12mm!
  Results are not quaranteed with an improper 
assembly.
!!! WARNING !!!

Assembling the heater part

This is just like in the v3.0.1 assembly manual.
((If you are interested you can read the whole v3.0.1 manual by clicking here, for v4 assembly you only need the specific chapters linked below))

Preparing the thermistor

Click here to see the preparing the thermistor step.

Preparing the power resistor

Click here to see the preparing the power resistor step.

Building the heater block (mounting the power resistor and thermistor)

Click here to see the building the heaterblock step.

Assembling the top part

Here is how the kit looks like once opened:

Screwing the nozzle and SS part together

You take the nozzle:

And the stainless steel part:

You screw them using a 8mm and a 12mm wrench:

Tighten it hard. I mean hard, really hard. The best is when assembled and heated up to 160-200C you screw it again.

Here is a picture, when screwed:

Assembling the heatsink

You take the heatsink, grub screw and the ptfe tube:

You turn over the heatsink:

You push the ptfe tube into it:

You screw the heatsink onto the stainless steel part with hand *only*!
If you tighten it with two wrenches, you will destroy the part!
If you tighten it with two hands you may destroy the part!
Just screw it using two fingers, and DON'T force it. Please. Pretty please.

((Please note the heatsink orientation.
The bigger diameter (where the fins are) meets with the SS barrel.
Just like on the above picture.))

You screw the grub screw in it:

You take a screwdriver:

And screw the grub screw hard in it:

Here is a final look from the front:

(note: the power resistor is just for holding the hotend for the photo!)

Applying PTFE strip to the nozzle

To prevent bonding the heaterblock (aluminium) to the nozzle (aluminium) at high temperature we apply ptfe strip around the nozzle, one layer is enough, its only there to prevent direct alu-alu contact (aluminium bonding).

Wrap PTFE strip around the nozzle (watch out the twisting orientation!, one layer is enough):

It looks like this when assembled:

Its easy to remove the surplus ptfe strip, but you DONT NEED to!
It actually help to keep clean the nozzle from the plastic.

If you applied ptfe strip its a joy to remove the nozzle from the heater block:

Mounting on the machine

Here is the plate, which you can mount the hot-end onto the machine.
The two holes are 50mm apart:

You simply push it into the slot:

The final assembly

The final assembled hot-end looks like this:

From the top:

On the machine:

FAN

You are advised to have a fan on the carriage.
A 40mm fan would be nice:

The best is control the fan from gcode,
snippet of slic3r's config.ini:

start_gcode = G28 ; home all axes\nM106 S150 ; Fan on

For PLA you definietly need a fan, for
abs you are advised to have one.
You may or may not require depending on
speed, abs manufacturer. However the
print may require slight air movement to solidify
the layers (especially for thin walls).

TESTING RESULTS

I collect data about printing with different plastics on this page:
V4 vs. plastic

.